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| Stage 2 - Coffin Bay to Dunsborough to Kimba |
Some Gear Comments
We had a rest day in Coffin Bay which enabled us to reflect on how things were going after the first few days - us, gear, bike, etc. We were going really well - my super pillion said that it was the most comfortable she had ever been on any of our long distance trips.
The Triumph "gearsack" on the carrier wasn't really a backrest but was stiff enough with our gear in it to provide confidence to rest against. The bag is a good size and very useful with the side pockets. Just a pity it isn't waterproof - with the cover on it isn't too bad but its still not completely water tight.
The Caribou panniers were waterproof though and the Threadlock I put on the hinge pins did the job as
they stayed put this time.
I took three pair of BMW gloves with me - a bit of overkill probably but I used all of them at different times. Spring can be all types of weather and most days I rode with the Atlantis 4 gloves all day as it was so cold, but the summer and light winter gloves also got a work out at various times.
Two-up with gear and cross/head winds makes of mockery of everyday-at-home petrol consumption figures of 23km/l - you can see from the petrol figures that this dropped to between 14-18km/l at 110-120km/h. I mostly used 91 octane unleaded petrol - available everywhere - and the Tiger ran like a Swiss watch the whole way. This reduced our range to a confident 220km or a seat-wettingly nervous 260km. It didn't really matter as there were petrol stops at least every 200km and we were ready to stop by then each time anyway.
Stage 2 - Coffin Bay to Dunsborough to Kimba
Tuesday 8th October
Coffin Bay to Nullabor Roadhouse
Odo start: 27843km
Odo finish: 28526km
Total: 683km
Depart: 7.30am
Arrive: 3.50pm
Petrol
Elliston 9.02am
27998km
198km
10.56l @ 159.0c/l = $16.79
Km/l = 18.8
Ceduna 12.12pm
28230km
234km
12.26l @ 173.9c/l = $21.32
Km/l = 19.1
Thought we'd take the coast road from Coffin Bay for sea-views - waste of time as there were very few coastal glimpses except at Streaky Bay. There is a fantastic lunch stop here - can't remember the name of it but its in the middle of town right on the water - the scones and coffee are worth it. We stopped here again on the way back but I'll write that up later.
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| Overlooking Streaky Bay |
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| Past Ceduna the roads get straighter |
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| Wheat-field country |
Nundroo 2.05pm
28382km
152km
8.53l @ 166.9c/l = $14.24
Km/l = 17.8
Very dry and dusty here and toilets were dreadful. Got petrol and left quickly.
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| At Nundroo - getting towards 39 degrees. |
Nullabor 3.48pm
28526km
144km
7.79l @ 197.9c/l = $15.42
Km/l = 18.5
Arrive Nullabor Roadhouse 3.50pm.
Double room in motel $155 with air conditioning.
39 degrees and heavy northerly cross winds all day today. Excellent bar and restaurant for dinner. Fairly dear but we are in the middle of nowhere after all. It was worth booking ahead as the motel part was full by 5pm.
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| Nullabor Roadhouse - we stayed here each way over and back - very friendly people, great food and clean |
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| Do not ride at night people - the roadkill amount is incredible. |
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| Sunset with a windy 42 degrees at Nullabor Roadhouse |
Wednesday 9th October
Nullabor Roadhouse to Balladonia
Odo start: 28526km
Odo finish: 29247km
Total: 720km
Depart: 7.39am
Arrive: 3.15pm plus 2.5 hours
Petrol
Border Village 10.26am
28715km
190km
11.66l @ 206.0c/l = $24.02
Km/l = 16.3
Turned clocks back 2.5 hours here because WA doesn't have DST and is 1.5 hours behind SA. Stopped at 4 of the coastal lookouts - one wasn't signposted and was exactly 60km out from Nullabor. All were uniformly excellent. Cliff coastline is stunning.
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| This is at the unsignposted lookout at 60km from Nullabor Roadhouse |
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| Coastal Lookout 2 was the pick really - if you only see one, see this one. |
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| 800km of cliffs |
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| Go and see the cliffs - they are equal to anything I've seen anywhere in the world |
Madura 12.48pm (10.18am WA time)
28909km
194km
10.60l @ 219.0c/l = $23.23
Km/l = 18.3
Excellent salad sandwich for lunch here.
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| The Plain from the lookout just outside Madura |
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| Cocklebiddy is not a big place |
Caiguna 3.15pm (12.45pm WA time)
29066km
157km
8.28l @ 198.0c/l = $16.39
Km/l = 19.0
Started to rain about 60km out from Balladonia and get very windy and cold. Southerly with thunder.
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| Caiguna Roadhouse sign. |
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| The start near Caiguna - its actually not all that noticeable as its still quite hilly - you can't see one end to the other or anything like that. Starting to get more trees as the Plain goes west. |
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| The straightest road is full of things to see. |
Balladonia 5.43pm (3.15pm WA time)
29247km
182km
10.21l @ 214.0c/l = $21.85
Km/l = 17.8
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| Who would believe rain on the Nullabor? At Balladonia Roadhouse. |
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| Undercover at Balladonia Roadhouse - this was booked from Coffin Bay and worth doing as it was full by dark. Very friendly staff here with good food and wine. |
Arrive Balladonia Roadhouse 3.15pm WA time.
Double room in motel $135. Very nice place.
Started with 32 degrees and heavy northerly cross winds again today but they changed to southerly cross winds and some rain toward the end of the day and 16 degrees.
Thursday 10th October
Balladonia to Wave Rock
Odo start: 29247km
Odo finish: 30061km
Total: 814km
Depart: 6.45am
Arrive: 5.10pm
Petrol
Norseman 8.45am
29444km
197km
10.32l @ 167.0c/l = $17.23
Km/l = 19.1
Cool start but beautiful day. Countryside slowly gets some trees through here and the Nullabor Plain is over. Norseman is a bit dodgy looking - like an outpost town. Lots of tin wall fences and deserted streets.
Esperance 11.09pm
29645km
204km
10.62l @ 172.9c/l = $18.37
Km/l = 19.2
Morning tea here on the bay. Beautiful scenery - bay side and surf side with islands offshore. Light blue water colour.
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| Esperance beaches are picturesque - watch out for sharks though. |
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| The Southern Ocean at Esperance |
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| An abalone diver was taken by a shark just east of here. |
Ravensthorpe 2.12pm
29847km
202km
10.97l @ 169.9c/l = $18.64
Km/l = 18.4
Wildflowers, wheat fields and lots of white butterflies smashing into the bike - from 100km north of Esperance to 50km west.
Hyden 4.22pm
30041km
194km
10.77l @ 170.0c/l = $18.32
Km/l = 18.0
Arrive Tressie's Museum and Caravan Park, Karlgarin 5.10pm. It's 18km west of Hyden - Hyden was booked out as was Wave Rock Resort (which is actually just a caravan park by the way).
Double room with no facilities in room $70. Very nice place with a friendly landlord. The Karlgarin Sports Club does dinners Wednesday to Sunday and, let me tell you, they do them really well. Only 1km from the Caravan Park.
Friday 11th October
Wave Rock to Dunsborough
Odo start: 30061km
Odo finish: 30535km
Total: 474km
Depart: 6.00am
Arrive: 1.45pm
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| Sunrise at Tressie's |
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| Wave Rock with an ugly man-made concrete wall on top - who designed that? |
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| The rock itself is huge - see it early in the morning before the tourist busloads arrive. |
Petrol
Narrogine 9.20am
30280km
239km
13.05l @ 150.9c/l = $19.69
Km/l = 18.3
Cool start. Very ordinary breakfast at Hyden bakery (dreadful coffee and out of date Vegemite sachets with toast) after a fantastic dinner at the Karlgarin Sports Club last night. Out to Wave Rock by about 7am for a wander around. They wanted $5 for the privilege - needs coins for machine. Rock is spectacular. Head-windy to Narrogine.
Dunsborough 1.41pm
30535km
254km
13.11l @ 165.9c/l = $21.75
Km/l = 19.4
Lunch at bakery here - pie was cold and tables were filthy. Very windy and showery until Bunbury, then just windy. Good riding roads though.
Arrive Dunsborough Inn Backpackers in "Verdelho" unit self contained with kitchen for $130 a night. We made it! 5000km to the turn of the wheel.
Rode out to pre-wedding party for dinner.
Saturday 12th October
Dunsborough to Busselton return
Odo start: 30546km
Odo finish: 30597km
Total: 51km
Depart: 7.45am
Arrive: 11.00am
Rode up to DownSouth Motorcycles in Busselton to get oil change and new rear tyre. Right rear blinker bracket broke - the one that warranty refused to fix 12 months ago - cable ties will have to see us home. Already melted part of the blinker assembly by leaning on the exhaust.
Bike shop put new tyre on and changed oil (Motul 300V 10W40), bought a new bike cover and small can of chain wax for an all up cost of $499.95. Tyre fitted at 30574 with 42psi. Bought some Armorall multipurpose cleaner and some Chux wipes and gave the bike a good clean.
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| Broken right blinker assembly |
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| The beautiful bride Emma and super pillion Tania |
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| Tania and groom John |
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| A cleaned rear wheel and new tyre |
Sunday 13th October
Dunsborough to Denmark
Odo start: 30597km
Odo finish: 30973km
Total: 376km
Trip = 185km
Depart: 8.10am
Arrive: 2.10pm
Petrol
Margaret River 9.50am
30658km
123km
5.96l @ 154.9c/l = $9.23
Km/l = 20.6
Lazy start with sleep in til 6.30 after a 12.20am finish last night. Coffee and toast in Dunsborough then rolled off down Caves Road to Margaret River - good signage by the way.
Pemberton 11.53am
30788km
130km
6.58l @ 163.0c/l = $10.74
Km/l = 19.8
Stopped here for a morning tea. A timber town with big Karri trees.
Denmark to Norseman
Odo start: 30975km
Odo finish: 31704km
Total: 709km
Depart: 7.15am
Arrive: 4.00pm
Petrol
Denmark 7.10am
30975km
185km
8.96l @ 159.9c/l = $14.33
Km/l = 20.6
Tried single serve oats from the IGA for brekky - just add boiling water. It was good. YHA's here don't include towels by the way. Full serve petrol as well.
Jerramungup 9.37am
31198km
225km
11.82l @ 162.6c/l = $19.24
Km/l = 19.0
This place took the prize for the worst toilet on the whole trip - dirty, smelly, filthy, no paper.
Lots of 90 zones and school zones to Albany. Upped the cruising speed from Albany to 125km/h since there was no wind. Much better time being made.
Ravensthorpe 11.09am
31312m
114km
5.98l @ 174.9c/l = $10.46
Km/l = 19.1
Back into the wheat fields again. From here on we are back on roads already travelled until Streaky Bay.
Esperance 1.45pm
31504km
192km
10.67l @ 162.9c/l = $17.38
Km/l = 18.0
Stopped at the same tea rooms on the beach. Beautiful place. Still averaging 125km/h as much as possible.
Norseman 4.00pm
31704m
202km
11.18l @ 176.9c/l = $19.78
Km/l = 18.1
Arrive Norseman at 4.00pm into the booked Gateway CP Bungalow $125 per night. The place is very busy which is a good sign. Great countryside with lakes and salt plains north of Esperance. Fuel at Salmon Gums midway between Norseman and Esperance if needed. Walked up to IGA for a soup and bread dinner and some oats for brekky. Lots of abandoned houses and super six asbestos high fencing and very few people around - a bit eerie really. Rang Nullabor Roadhouse to book a room for tomorrow night.
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| Ensuite cabin at Norseman |
Tuesday 15th October
Norseman to Nullabor
Odo start: 31704km
Odo finish: 32610km
Total: 906km
Depart: 5.15am
Arrive: 2.54pm
Petrol
Balladonia 7.10am
31894km
190km
11.07l @ 199.9c/l = $22.13
Km/l = 17.2
Single serve oats for brekky - just add boiling water. It was good again - creamy vanilla. Left just after daybreak and easy run to Balladonia for coffee. Sitting on 125km/h mostly. Cold start with full gear on.
Caiguna 9.08am
32074km
180km
10.20l @ 198.0c/l = $20.20
Km/l = 17.6
Saw a roo bound across in front of us here but not too close. Zoomed along the 90 mile straight road to here. Saw one other bike here - an R80. Warming up a bit now.
Madura 10.44am
32230m
156km
8.94l @ 197.0c/l = $17.62
Km/l = 17.4
Brilliant view from the top lookout and drop down onto the mallee plain at Madura. Great salad sandwich for early lunch here.
Border Village 12.53pm
32423km
193km
10.26l @ 198.0c/l = $20.31
Km/l = 18.8
Wind change from light northerly to a cool southerly but both generally a tailwind made for easy riding. Highway patrol car and station near Eucla.
Nullabor 2.54pm
32607m
184km
12.02l @ 196.9c/l = $23.67
Km/l = 15.03
Southerly changed to northerly headwind for much of this stretch. Hard work. Stopped at cliffs lookout. Great scenery.
Arrive Nullabor at 2.54pm. SA time is 2.5 hours ahead of WA time so we arrived at 5.24pm local. Into the booked Nullabor Motel at $155. Bliss. Excellent dinner at the roadhouse.
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| Coastal lookout 4 near Nullabor |
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| Nullabor Roadhouse in the background |
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| Cruising toward Nullabor Roadhouse |
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| New cover at sunset at Nullabor Roadhouse. |
Wednesday 16th October
Nullabor to Kimba via Streaky Bay
Odo start: 32610km
Odo finish: 33269km
Total: 659km
Depart: 8.42am
Arrive: 4.42pm
Petrol
Penong 11.30am
32855km
248km
13.60l @ 160.9c/l = $21.88
Km/l = 18.2
Raisin toast and coffee at Nullabor was great. Late getaway after yesterday's big day. Not far out of there was the Head of the Night lookout - $7 each but brilliant. The change point between sand dunes to the East and the cliffs to the West.
Drink at Nundroo as its pretty warm and very windy but mostly a tailwind thank goodness.
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| At the Head of the Bight - sandy beaches to the east |
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| At the Head of the Bight - cliffs to the west |
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| What we do is who we are |
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| The flies were rampant |
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| It is worth the admission price |
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| Not often I see roads like this near Sydney |
Streaky Bay 1.26pm
33035km
181km
9.41l @ 160.5c/l = $15.10
Km/l = 19.2
Went straight on through Ceduna to Streaky Bay. Very windy and hot but mostly a northerly tailwind all the way. Lunch at Streaky Bay cafe was a seafood antipasto for two with scallops, mussels, oysters, squid, dried whiting and cod, wasabi seaweed and bread. Best meal of the whole trip.
Still averaging 125km/h.
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| The Bight area |
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| Blowing an absolute gale at Streaky Bay - we had a howling NW tailwind when we walked into the cafe which changed to a howling SW tailwind for our run to Kimba. Very lucky. |
Kimba 4.42pm
33269km
233km
11.48l @ 158.9c/l = $18.24
Km/l = 20.3
A wind change over lunch to a southwester meant another huge tailwind to Kimba at 125-130km/h all the way with the best fuel consumption of the trip so far. Arrive Kimba at 4.42pm. Staying at Golden Chain motel $99. Walked into town for drink at the hotel - Coopers Stout and Coopers Mild Ale. Snack for dinner after such a great lunch.
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Sunset at Kimba
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